Say the word tartan, and the first thing that springs to mind is Scotland, kilts and checks . Whilst embedded in our national heritage, the history of tartan is not widely known. In this blog post we are going to take a closer look at tartan, what it is, its origins and how it is still heavily present in the modern day.
What is Tartan?
Tartan is simply a design on a woven material, the horizontal weft threads cross over the vertical warp threads to create a check. As the check builds, it begins to mirror and repeat, creating a traditional Scottish Tartan.
The official definition of the word ‘tartan’ according to The Scottish Register of Tartans Act 2008) Section 2 is: “A design which is capable of being woven consisting of two or more alternating coloured stripes which combine vertically and horizontally to form a repeated chequered pattern.”
Tartan fabric is undoubtedly a key part of the identity of Scotland. Traditionally made of wool, woven into a pattern of simple checks, used in clothing and textiles. Originally, it was dyed using natural dyes from native plants and usually found in only two or three colours.
In the modern day with the development of chemical dyes a much larger selection of tartan can be found in a variety of colours and patterns. There are numerous different combinations of coloured stripes and base colours. This has led to there now being around 3000 types of tartan on the official register.
Tartan can be used to make many different traditional Scottish outfits the most famous of which is the kilt, however it’s also played a significant part in modern fashion especially in the 60’s when tartan dresses and mini skirts were a familiar sight on London’s Oxford Street.
The History of Family Clan Tartans
The earliest evidence of tartan dates back to 250 AD , when a small piece of cloth was discovered in a jar along the Antonine Wall in Falkirk. This now has a place in the National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh. However, it is not completely clear where and when tartan first originated.
Historians believe that tartan became commonplace around the 16th Century. At that time it was worn by the highlanders as a way of identifying different clans. Over time the different tartans were seen as a way of recognising a particular clans from the different geographical areas in Scotland
A Scottish clan is a group of people who have a shared Scottish ancestry and heritage . The Scottish clans can be traced back to medieval times. They were extended families who not only lived but also worked together and gave each other protection. The clans had a strong bond of loyalty, identity and belonging . Today, many Scottish clans still have their own specific tartan design associated with their family name, which is worn to celebrate heritage and pride towards their ancestry.
The Battle of Culloden’s impact on Tartan
There was a time in history when tartan nearly vanished. This occurred following the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The roots of the conflict can be traced back to 1714, when political tensions arose after the House of Hanover, a German royal dynasty, seized the British throne from the Scottish House of Stuart. In defiance, the Jacobite movement emerged. The Jacobite Rising was a political effort aimed at reinstating the Stuart dynasty to power.
Charles Edward Stuart, leader of the Jacobite rebels, suffered defeat at the hands of the British army under the command of the Duke of Cumberland. Charles ordered his Highlander forces to charge the British, but after a brutal clash, the Highlanders retreated, leaving the King’s army victorious.
Following the pursuit and elimination of the remaining rebels, the British government sought to dismantle the clan system due to its role in the uprising. In 1746, the Act of Proscription was enacted, making it illegal to wear tartan, and even bagpipes were classified as instruments of war. Determined to suppress the rebellion, the government strictly enforced these laws.
Tartan Revival
As a result of the events described above, tartan kilts and tartan dresses started to disappear. Sadly during this time many of the original patterns were lost, however 1822 saw the beginning of the great tartan revival , influenced by a visit to Edinburgh by King George IV the new king, the first by a monarch in close to 200 years. He made a request that those attending official meetings wear their family tartan kilts and tartan dresses. This decree provided encouragement for the people of Scotland to once again don their tartan dress .
This revival continues into the modern day, and forms a huge part of the Scottish identity. It sparks interest worldwide in people who are wanting to learn more about Scottish culture , and their own Scottish heritage .
Why is Tartan so Popular Today?
Tartan still plays a big part in the fashion of today and many people wear tartan as a nod to their Celtic heritage . At formal occasions traditional tartan highland dress is incredibly popular , especially at weddings and highland events. Those who have Scottish heritage wear highland dress made out of their clan tartan with pride. Should you not have a clan tartan for your highland dress, then you can choose from the many available ,or go the whole hog and design your own.
What began as a symbol of masculinity, tartan dress has now made its way into everyday fashion . We see it every day in the form of scarves ,dresses, trousers, jackets and in household items such as cushions, carpets and curtains .It is popular with designers ,who incorporate it into the seasons collections, making it a trendy fashionable wardrobe staple .
Given the long history of tartan and tartan dress, its place in Scottish culture is secured. Its timeless elegance and adaptability mean it is as popular today as it’s ever been . Such is the popularity of tartan and tartan dress that it even has its own day, National Tartan Day 6th April is a time when people around the globe celebrate tartan dress. It is a day which brings together all those with Scottish heritage in recognition of the culture , tradition and the tartan In essence everything they love about Scotland
If Tartan dresses or accessories are something that is on your shopping list why not call the team here at British Retro and take a closer look at our extensive range of vintage clothing.
