The 1950s was an iconic time for British fashion, in this blog post we are going to take a look at the makeup of the 1950’s dresses, and what makes them so unique. Modern day fashions contain many 1950’s inspired reproductions, so if you are looking for an authentic 50’s vintage dress how can you tell the difference. Well don’t worry to help you, we are going to consider what details and design features set a 1950’s original apart from a reproduction. .
As the decade of the 50’s moved on, styles did change and vary, so what we are aiming to do is emphasise the common traits that will help you identify if a dress is indeed an authentic one from the era, as opposed to a modern day copy .
If you are one of the lucky ones who’s quest for a 1950s dress has yielded fruit, then well done! But if you are still searching for this coveted item, then you are far more likely to find one at a vintage fair or a vintage boutique as opposed to a charity shop.
At the start of the 1950’s clothing was not mass manufactured in the way it is today . The trend was still very much for homemade and handmade dresses, with women turning the sewing skills they had developed during war time ,and rationing towards fashion and clothing This is the reason many of the original 1950’s dresses do not have identifying labels. Many tea dresses were made using the fabrics from Horrockses and Viyella, and if you were to come across a label it is likely to be from C&A , St Michaels or Littlewoods. Catalogues such Polly Peck and Kays were also popular at the time, and can be an indicator you have got your hands on an original.
Silhouette
The 1950’s dress was all about emphasising shape. Early in the decade this was done with a tight fitted bodice, nipped in waist and a full circle skirt. As the years moved on, this evolved into the narrow pencil skirts still with the emphasis on defining a woman’s silhouette with petticoats. It was a time when women demanded a more feminine style of dress, and began to move away from the more androgynous style of the 1940s.
Fabrics
The 1950’s did not have the range of synthetic manufactured fabrics we have today. So the use of natural fabrics such as cottons, wool, silk and linen is predominant in dresses from the early 1950’s. Gradually the development of fabrics such as nylon, acetate and polyester saw a move towards this type of material. These types of fabrics hold their vibrancy and colour over time, unlike cottons which tend to fade .
Prints were very popular, especially florals and silhouette designs. Patterned borders were used to create statement hemlines and bodices. For a more formal or evening occasion, satin tulle taffeta and velvet were the favoured fabrics, and if a dress is made from one of these it can be a good indicator that you have discovered an original
Necklines and Collars
1950s’ vintage dresses and clothing will have round, square and wide boat necklines. On the shirt waist dresses the stand up collar is again a good clue that the dress is authentic . Be aware however that you might also find wing shawl and sailor style necklines. For an occasion dress, the wrap over bodice style is one to look out for .
Sleeves
The sleeve is a less reliable way of authenticating a 1950s dress. Sleeves came in a variety of differing lengths. They were nearly all set in straight, with no gathering at the heads. One clue to look for is a ¾ length, as they were one of the more popular choices .
Belts
Narrow and covered in fabric to match the body of the dress is the key thing to look out for in belts. Metal eyelets and hand stitched buttonholes with buckles that also have matching fabric and if you wanted to jazz a dress up, Lucit was sometimes used. As there was a move towards the narrower 50s pencil skirt ,conversely belts became wider. The belt was quite often the first part of the 50’s dress to show signs of wear and tear, exhibiting frayed material or rust marks on buckles. If you are lucky enough to get your hands on an original vintage dress this is one part of it that we would recommend you don’t wash .
Skirts
Full and falling from the waist either pleated or gathered is the hallmark of an early 1950s dress. The fuller the skirt, the more likely it is an evening inspired dress. The slimmer pencil skirts tended to be made from thicker, more structured material ,and had higher waistlines . The average skirt length in the 1950s was around 27″
Notions and trims
Check out the quality of buttons and the material used to manufacture them. A clear button indicates Lucite, which became popular in the 1950s .
Construction
Turn the dress inside out, and get those seams checked. Overlocking was not really a thing in the 1950’s, so to prevent fraying pinking shears were used which produced a distinctive zig zag pattern along the edge of the seam. The hem should be deep, unlike the narrower modern day hems. Darts which would allow the hem to sit flat, and tape to create an even finish are all things to look out for in a 1950’s original. Evening dresses may have small weighted balls in the hem, and a lack of an inner lining as the trend was to wear an under slip or an attached net petticoat .
Metal not plastic zips, inserted at the side not the back of the skirt or dress, as this helped to maintain the shape of the silhouette .
Embellishments
More often used for evening dresses, embellishments can take the form of lace, machine added embroidery or applique .
Care and sizing labels
Care labels did not become commonplace until the end of the 1950’s, so the lack of one can mean it is a genuine vintage model. It was only when washing machines became more common, and the use of synthetic fabrics increased that labels were added to clothing later in the 60’s.
In conclusion , this is a broad overview of how to identify an authentic original 1950s dress. At British Retro we have a wide range of authentic 1950’s dresses, so if you are looking for to step back into a bygone era and want the real thing not a copy get in touch with our team today.